Uruguay – Love at First Sight

My initial impressions of the country can be summed up this way, despite being one of the smallest South American nations, it possesses qualities that even the most advanced world powers could envy.

When I first arrived at the local airport in the capital city of Montevideo a few months ago, I was already captivated by the modern, architecturally intriguing airport building itself. The journey from the airport heading east to Punta del Este was equally mesmerizing. Along the 130-kilometer highway, wide stretches of green land filled with palm trees and blooming plants bordered the road, tended to all day by gardeners to maintain its pristine appearance. Impeccable order, clean sidewalks, and roads pleasantly surprise you at every turn. The expectations of finding an “underdeveloped” part of the world simply do not come true here. Uruguay is one of the most developed and safest countries in South America, and that is just the beginning of its list of achievements. Uruguay, for instance, was the first Latin American nation to permit adoption by same-sex couples. Fourteen years ago, it provided every student with a free laptop and internet access as part of compulsory education, making it the world’s first country to do so. Uruguay is also praised for its ecological approach and excellent working conditions. Since 2013, marijuana has been entirely legal in the country, and residents can purchase it from licensed pharmacies. The former Uruguayan president, José Mujica, also known as “Pepe,” has contributed to the country’s unique achievements. You might have heard of him; he gained fame as the “world’s poorest president” when he donated ninety percent of his monthly income to the poor. He welcomed visitors to his semi-ruined farm while dressed in sweatpants and a hoodie, frequently quoted Plato and Seneca, and many spoke of him as a potential Nobel Peace Prize laureate.

While Uruguay is a modern nation, its prosperity is primarily driven by agriculture. The vast plains, where 12 million cattle roam, are endless and breathtaking to behold. Most farms remain in family hands, and beef is the largest export item, next to grains, dairy products, and cellulose. Incidentally, beef is the most affordable meat in Uruguay, while pork is almost unobtainable. There are three to four cows for every Uruguayan resident, which partly explains why the locals excel at preparing some of the world’s best steaks.

Uruguay significantly exports to China, and deepening relations with China are a current presidential priority. China has signed over 30 bilateral agreements with Uruguay, designating it as a strategic partner.

But let’s set politics aside. In this small, sleepy country dotted with farms and a pleasant subtropical climate, I am continually fascinated by the locals. They are incredibly kind and welcoming. At every turn, you encounter Uruguayans sipping a unique beverage from peculiar containers. I had no idea what it was until a local lady kindly explained it to me. Everyone here constantly sips on Maté tea, known for its stimulating effects, and it’s prepared in a special gourd container. While the average Czech drinks 181 liters of beer annually, a Uruguayan consumes around 10 kg of Maté each year. Uruguayans have another peculiarity; they are incredibly unpunctual. You can arrange a meeting with them, and they may arrive an hour late, but with such a radiant smile that you quickly forgive them. Their rather unconventional approach to time becomes evident in local restaurants as well. Even in the best establishments, waiting 1.5 hours for your food is not uncommon.

Uruguay will enchant you with its beautiful beaches and lagoons. The architecture in the capital city, Montevideo, is breathtaking, a blend of historic and modern buildings. Along the coastline stretches the 27-kilometer-long promenade, Rambla, one of the longest in the world. And I can’t get enough of Punta Del Este, a town of tens of thousands located on a narrow peninsula on the Uruguayan coast. It reminds me of French Saint Tropez, a touch of American Beverly Hills, and a hint of Italian Venice. The light brown sand of its extensive beaches is a magnet for the world’s biggest celebrities. The city enjoys a pleasant climate, a vibrant nightlife, and it can get quite expensive. The city is undergoing incredible development, with unattractive areas rapidly transforming into thriving modern neighborhoods. The spacious villas often have no fences, providing a sense of space and freedom.

My relationship with Uruguay deepens with each visit, and my impressions of this country are enriched by a recent anecdote. I sit in a garden under a sprawling tree with large pink velvet-like flowers, enjoying the sea views. As dusk falls, I see in the distance a group of people taking their horses into the water. It’s a remarkable sight I’ve never witnessed before. And then it hits me: they’re swimming the horses. For locals, it’s a common ritual that adds variety to their everyday equestrian routine, refreshes both the horses and the riders, and is believed to aid muscle recovery and cleanse the skin, fur, and mane. All this, and so much more, is Uruguay, my love at first and second sight.

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